How to Prune Shrubs Climbers and Trees - The Gardener’s Pruning Guide

Mastering how and when to prune shrubs, climbers, and trees is the secret to a thriving, beautiful garden. In this comprehensive pruning guide, you’ll discover why pruning plants matters, explore the key pruning groups, and learn essential techniques every gardener needs. Whether you’re shaping climbers into an arch or cutting back overgrown shrubs, these friendly, expert tips will help you prune with confidence, encourage healthy growth, enhance flowering and boost fruit yields.

Pruning hydrangea at the right moment ensures a spectacular summer display. Most deciduous hydrangea benefit from a late winter prune while still dormant. Remove dead wood and cut each stem back to one or two strong buds. That encourages fresh shoots, which bear large flower heads in early summer. For mophead varieties, trim lightly after flowering to shape and remove old blooms. Avoid hard pruning of panicle hydrangea, as these flower on new wood; instead, cut them back in late winter to ground level. With well-timed pruning, hydrangea rewards your efforts with weeks of colourful flowers and sturdy new growth.

The ideal pruning window for deciduous trees and shrubs is the dormant season—late winter or early spring. Working before bud burst helps avoid frost damage and minimises sap bleed. Start by removing dead or diseased wood, making clean cuts back to healthy stems. Next, reduce crossing or inward-growing branches to open the canopy for light and air. For formative pruning of young trees, focus on establishing a strong scaffold structure in the first two years. Mature shrubs benefit from annual maintenance pruning—never remove more than a third of the previous season’s growth. This balanced approach promotes steady, healthy growth without shocking your plants.

Evergreen shrubs require gentler pruning to maintain shape and encourage new shoots. Trim in early spring before new growth appears, using sharp shears for neat edges. Avoid cutting into old, leafless wood, since evergreens lack dormant buds on bare stems. Instead, make thinning cuts to remove whole stems at ground level, allowing fresh shoots to replace them. Regular light trimming of the outer growth keeps your evergreens looking tidy and compact. For larger specimens, alternate thinning cuts with soft shearing to balance structure with natural form. This method ensures consistent health and prevents disease by improving light and air flow through the foliage.

Formative pruning shapes the framework of young fruit trees, setting them up for future productivity. In the first three years after planting, train side branches to form a balanced, open-centre structure. Remove competing leaders so only a single main stem remains, and encourage well-spaced scaffold limbs by cutting back vigorous side shoots. Remove weak or inward-growing branches to focus the tree’s energy on developing strong fruit-bearing wood. This early attention reduces the need for severe pruning later and creates a healthy form that supports bountiful blossom and fruit in subsequent years. Proper formative pruning also simplifies harvesting and maintenance.

Summer pruning keeps vigorous shrubs and trees under control and encourages a second flush of flowers. For deciduous shrubs, prune back spent flowering stems soon after bloom, cutting just above a new bud or side shoot. This directs energy into fresh growth and promotes new flower buds on that season’s wood. Light trimming of hedges or topiary in mid-summer maintains clean lines without sacrificing display. Avoid heavy cuts late in summer or autumn, as new shoots may fail to harden off before frost. By pruning selectively in summer, you can manage size and shape while supporting vibrant flower and fruit production.

Shearing produces crisp, formal shapes but can lead to dense outer growth and weak inner wood. For ornamental hedges and topiary, shear lightly once or twice a year. For broadleaf shrubs and specimen bushes, prefer trimming via thinning cuts. Thinning removes whole stems back to the main framework, improving light, air flow and preventing disease. This method also encourages new growth at ground level, keeping the plant bushy. Gardeners should mix shearing for shaped hedges with thinning for natural-form shrubs to balance aesthetics with plant health.

Annual pruning keeps climbers healthy and promotes robust flowering. In late winter, remove dead or diseased stems at ground level to clear the framework. Tie the main stems to supports, then trim side shoots back to two or three buds to shape and direct growth. For early-flowering climbers, prune immediately after flowering to avoid cutting away buds for next year’s display. For repeat-flowering varieties, a light trim in summer helps maintain form and encourages fresh flower buds. Proper pruning of climbers delivers controlled growth, better airflow, and a stunning show of flowers and fruit in season.

Winter pruning works well for many trees and bushes because plants remain dormant. Cut away diseased branches first, then remove crossing stems to open the canopy. Use a pruning saw for thick limbs and secateurs for thinner stems, making clean cuts just beyond the branch collar. Removing dead wood before spring reduces pest and disease risk, and helps channel the tree’s energy into new shoots. But avoid winter pruning of early-flowering shrubs, as you risk losing next season’s flower buds. Choosing the dormant season offers your plants a fresh start when warm weather returns.

Removing dead or diseased wood is critical to maintaining garden health. Dead stems can house fungal spores and pests, spreading disease through the plant. Diseased branches weaken the structure and reduce flowering or fruiting potential. Use clean, sharp tools to make a clean cut just above healthy wood or a side shoot. Sterilise blades between cuts to avoid transferring pathogens. This essential pruning practice keeps your shrubs, climbers and trees vigorous, resilient and ready to reward you with abundant flower buds and healthy new growth.

Pruning’s one of those tasks that can feel a bit daunting at first—but once you understand the basics and learn to read your plants, it becomes second nature. Over the years, I’ve found that a thoughtful, well-timed prune doesn’t just improve how a plant looks—it brings it to life. Whether it’s shaping a young fruit tree for better yields or thinning a mature shrub to let the light in, each cut you make helps your garden flourish. I often stand back after a session with secateurs in hand and admire the new structure taking shape. It’s deeply satisfying. And remember, pruning isn’t about control—it’s about care, encouragement, and setting the stage for nature to do what it does best.

Q: When is the best time to prune shrubs in the garden?

A: The best time to prune most shrubs depends on whether they flower on old or new wood. For deciduous shrubs that bloom in spring, pruning immediately after flowering preserves the following year’s flower buds. For summer-flowering types, pruning in late winter or early spring encourages vigorous new growth. Always use sharp tools to make a clean cut, and remove any dead or diseased stems to promote healthy growth. Consult specific pruning groups if you’re unsure of the type of shrub you’re working with.

Q: How do I prune a climber without damaging it?

A: Many climbers require little pruning, but keeping them tidy ensures they don’t become tangled or overly vigorous. The key is to cut back excess growth after flowering, usually in late summer. Remove old wood and spent flower stems, and train new shoots along supports. For climbing roses, trim side shoots to a few buds above the main framework. Always step back and assess the shape before making cuts, and never shear climbers as you would hedges—this can ruin their form and reduce flowering.

Q: Can you prune ornamental trees in summer?

A: Summer pruning is suitable for some ornamental trees, especially where formative pruning or size control is needed. This is also the right time to remove dead, crossing, or crowded branches, allowing more light and air into the canopy. However, avoid cutting during extreme heat or drought, and never prune trees and bushes prone to bleeding sap (like birch or maple) in summer. If unsure, consult a pruning guide or seek advice from a professional gardener.

Q: What does it mean to ‘cut back’ plants?

A: To cut back means to trim a plant’s stems back to encourage new growth, maintain shape, or improve flowering. This is especially useful for herbaceous perennials, shrubs that flower in summer, and overgrown plants that need rejuvenating. Always cut to just above a bud or side shoot, and remove any weak, thin, or leggy growth. For more woody shrubs, cutting back too hard may damage them, so focus on a gentle prune unless the plant is known to tolerate severe pruning.

Q: Should I prune established plants every year?

A: Yes, annual pruning is beneficial for most established plants, helping to manage size, improve flowering or fruiting, and encourage healthy growth. It also reduces the risk of disease by improving airflow. The type of pruning needed will vary: some plants thrive with a hard prune back each year, while others require only a light tidy. Trees and shrubs especially benefit from regular attention, as neglected specimens may become woody, sparse, or overly dense.

Q: Is pruning in summer ever necessary?

A: Pruning in summer is essential for specific trees and shrubs, particularly when managing size or correcting shape. It’s also helpful in removing new growth that’s too vigorous or obscures form. For fruit trees, summer pruning encourages the development of flower and fruit buds rather than excessive leafy growth. Always avoid pruning during periods of drought or high stress, and don’t prune deciduous species too late in the season, as it may affect their cold hardiness.

Q: How do I prune hydrangeas correctly?

A: The method for pruning hydrangea depends on the species. Mophead and lacecap varieties (Hydrangea macrophylla) should be pruned lightly in late winter or early spring, removing only dead flower heads and cutting to the first pair of strong buds. Paniculata and arborescens types can be cut back harder to encourage stronger flower stems. Avoid removing old wood on mopheads, as this may prevent them from flowering. Always prune with care and consider the previous season’s growth.

Q: When should I prune evergreen shrubs?

A: Evergreen shrubs are best pruned in late spring or early summer, after the risk of frost has passed and just before vigorous growth resumes. Light trimming keeps them neat and encourages bushy development. Avoid cutting into old, woody stems unless the plant is known to regenerate well. Overzealous pruning can result in bare patches or stress. For best results, use sharp tools and make cuts just above a bud or healthy shoot. Always feed after pruning to support recovery.

Q: Do I need special tools to prune trees and bushes?

A: For most trees and bushes, a pair of sharp secateurs will suffice, but larger branches may require loppers or a pruning saw. Always ensure tools are clean and sharp to create a clean cut and prevent the spread of disease. Use bypass secateurs for living stems and anvil types for dead wood. For high branches, a telescopic pruner can provide safe reach. After use, disinfect tools and store them in a dry place to preserve their lifespan and performance.